How To Choose Your First Climbing ShoesA Complete Guide

How To Choose Your First Pair of Rock Climbing Shoes - A Complete Guide

Getting your first pair of rock climbing shoes is a big step! It’s an investment that will set the foundation for your climbing journey. But with so many options available, picking the right climbing shoes can be challenging. This guide will help you understand the key features to consider so you can confidently choose the best pair of shoes for your individual climbing needs.

Types of Climbing Shoes

Before diving into specifics, it's essential to understand the purpose of a climbing shoe. Unlike regular footwear, climbing shoes are designed to help you grip small footholds, give you better control, and provide feedback from the rock. They’re often constructed with sticky rubber soles, allowing climbers to balance on tiny edges and smear against flat surfaces.

Climbing shoes fall into three primary categories:

• Neutral Shoes: These offer a flat, relaxed fit. They are the most comfortable for beginners and all-day wear.
• Moderate Shoes: These have a slight downward curve or "camber," offering improved control for more advanced techniques without compromising too much on comfort.
• Aggressive Shoes: These have a dramatic downward curve, enhancing toe power and precision. However, they’re generally less comfortable and more suited to advanced climbers.

The more aggressive (downturned) the shoe, the more your toes will be curled. Beginner climbers tend to find this really uncomfortable. For your first pair, comfort is king. Given that you're unlikely to be climbing anything hard enough to require such an aggressive shoe (at least not in your first pair) it is better to go for a flatter shoe as this will be far more comfortable and give you are more enjoyable climbing experience.

What size Climbing Shoes to Choose?

Climbing shoe sizing is different from regular shoe sizing. The fit is intentionally snug, as loose shoes can reduce control. A loose-fitting climbing shoe will roll around your foot causing it to slip off small foot holds, you won't be able to place your feet precisely and as a result will find that your feet slip off small holds, and your calf muscles will tyre more quickly. That being said, it’s important to strike a balance; too tight, and you’ll experience pain and discomfort, which can hinder your learning and enjoyment. Aim for a "second skin" fit where your toes are slightly curled but not painfully crammed. Personally, I will wear a different size climbing shoe depending on what I'm doing. My indoor climbing shoes are the same as my trainer size, for trad climbing I go down half a size, for sport climbing I go down a full size, and for bouldering I go down a size and a half. Typically I wear a size eight trainer, but my boulder shoes are a six and a half. However, if I have a long break from climbing, I notice that my toes spread-out and when I come back to climbing, I can no longer fit into my bouldering shoes.

Every manufacturer sizes their shoes differently, so just because one size from one brand fits you well, that doesn't mean a climbing shoe from another brand will do. With that in mind, don't be tempted to buy your shoes online. Instead, go into a reputable climbing shop and try several different pairs on. Shoes come in all shapes and sizes so the important thing here is just to find something which fits your feet well. Remember, you're looking for that "second-skin" feeling. For your first pair, you should probably aim for the same size as your trainers. Don't be tempted to go up a size though. After a few climbing sessions your new pair of shoes will have stretched so in the long term, they won't be as snug as they were in the shop.

Remember, a slightly snug fit is beneficial, but discomfort should not be extreme.

Trying on Shoes and Finalizing the Fit

When trying on climbing shoes, it’s essential to check for both the feel and performance:

• Try Different Brands and Models: I can't stress this enough - every shoe fits differently, so go to a good climbing shop and try on multiple pairs to find the best match for your foot.
• Take Your Socks Off: When trying shoes on, don't forget to take your socks off! You want bare feet so that your shoes are less likely to slide around your foot.
• Test Basic Movements: When trying shoes, mimic climbing stances. Stand on your toes, shift weight from foot to foot, and see how your toes and heels feel in the shoe.
• Wear the Shoes for 10-15 Minutes: Climbing shoes often feel different after a few minutes. Take some time to ensure they don’t cause pressure points or unbearable discomfort.

Climbing Shoe Features to Look For

When selecting your first pair, certain features should take priority. Here are some of the most important ones:

Material: Leather vs. Synthetic
Climbing shoes come in leather and synthetic materials, each with its own pros and cons.

• Leather: Leather shoes tend to stretch over time, which can be beneficial if they feel snug at first. They also breathe better, which helps manage sweat.
• Synthetic: These shoes stretch minimally, retaining their shape more reliably. They’re better suited for climbers who want a consistent fit from day one but may not breathe as well as leather shoes.

However, material is far less of a concern than fitment.

Closure Type: Laces, Velcro, and Slippers
Climbing shoes come with three types of closures:

• Lace-Up: Lace-ups allow for a customizable fit, making them versatile. They can be adjusted for a looser fit for comfort or tightened for a performance-driven, snug fit.
• Velcro: Velcro straps are easy to take on and off, making them convenient for indoor climbing. However, they may not offer the same precise fit as laces.
• Slipper: Slipper-style shoes are generally softer and offer a simple, close-to-the-foot feel. While convenient, they might lack the rigidity some beginners prefer for stability.

For trad climbing I always go with lace-ups. I can leave the shoes loose fitting most of the time, or if I'm doing a hard pitch, I can sinch down the laces and make them really tight-fitting. For bouldering, I always go with velcro. Given that I go down a size and a half for bouldering, I want to spend as little time as possible wearing the shoes. A velcro closure means I can whip them on and off really quickly. For your first pair of shoes it doesn't really matter, but I would lean more towards a velcro closure; as your feet get used to wearing climbing shoes, it can be helpful to take them on and off quickly.

Where Will You Be Climbing? Indoor vs. Outdoor

Your climbing environment should also influence your choice of shoes.

• Indoor Climbing: For indoor climbing, you may prefer Velcro closures for easy on-and-off between climbs. Most beginner-friendly shoes will have a flat or slightly moderate profile suitable for various indoor routes. The footholds at indoor climbing walls tend to be bigger too, so you can get away with a more loose-fitting shoe. The texture of indoor holds and walls tends to be rougher than outdoors. With imprecise footwork, a hallmark of the beginner climber, the rubber on your shoes will wear down quickly. If you want your shoes to last longer, then choose a shoe with thicker rubber. Or better yet, learn to place your feet accurately.
• Outdoor Climbing: Laced shoes might be advantageous outdoors because they offer a more versatility for varied terrain. As your skills advance, you'll want shoes with thinner rubber so that you can feel the texture of the rock through your toes.

Rubber Types and Thickness

The rubber on climbing shoes plays a critical role in grip and durability. For beginners, the two main considerations are thickness and softness:

• Thicker Rubber (4-5 mm): Thicker rubber soles offer durability, making them ideal for new climbers who may scrape or drag their shoes against the wall. They also provide a more supportive base, which can help beginners build confidence in their footing.
• Softer Rubber: Softer rubber is more pliable, offering better grip and sensitivity. However, it may wear out faster. Beginners might want to choose a slightly firmer rubber that lasts longer while still offering some grip.

Which is the best Climbing Shoe Brand for Beginners?

While personal fit should guide your decision, some brands have excellent entry-level models with solid reputations. My personal favourite beginner climbing shoe is the Boreal Joker

• Boreal Joker: My personal favourite climbing shoe for beginners and a shoe which I come back to in my own climbing year after year. Available in both a lace and velcro version.
• La Sportiva Tarantulace: Known for comfort and versatility, this shoe is great for beginners, with a slight downturn and a durable sole.
• Scarpa Origin: This model is praised for its comfort and affordable price, with a relaxed fit and a solid, durable rubber sole.
• Evolv Defy: Designed with a synthetic upper and a comfortable fit, this model is ideal for gym and sport climbing beginners.
• Five Ten Kirigami: With a focus on all-day comfort, the Kirigami is a great option for beginners transitioning to outdoor climbs.

Breaking In Your New Climbing Shoes

Once you’ve chosen your shoes, give them time to break in. Here’s how:

• Start Slowly: Wear them during warm-up climbs to help them mold to your feet.
• Warm them up: A warm pair of shoes will be more pliable so will deform to the shape of your foot more easily.
• Expect Minor Stretching: Leather shoes will stretch more over time, so they may feel snug initially.
• Avoid Using in Wet Conditions: Don’t break in climbing shoes by soaking them; climbing shoes are often made using water-based glues, so soaking them can damage the construction and/or material.

Conclusion: Choosing the Right Beginner Climbing Shoe

Selecting the right pair of climbing shoes can make a big difference in your learning curve and overall enjoyment. Prioritize comfort, fit, and durability, especially if you’re a beginner. Remember that finding the right shoe may take a few tries, but the right pair will empower your climbing, boosting both your confidence and skill. Happy climbing!

If you'd like to fast-track your climbing, then book a "zero to hero" beginner's climbing course.